Denali: Crown Jewel of our National Parks
by Robert Glenn Ketchum
Starting in 1985, I spent 24yrs. visiting Alaska several times each year. Of the many places that I went, my favorite was to stay at Camp Denali, where I often lectured and taught workshops. These images were all created during those numerous visits.
~Robert Glenn Ketchum
Monday, November 6, 2023
Denali: Crown Jewel of our National Parks #58
Denali #58:
Late in the afternoon, the sun breaks through the cloudy skies and lights up the fall tundra, but only those staying at Camp Denali an enjoy it because all the other visitors from hotels outside the park are headed back to their hotels. Camp Denali guests have Denali National Park to themselves.
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Denali #57:
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The meals at Camp Denali are excellent, especially the dinners. The meats and fish come from outside the area, flown in once a week. Many of the vegetables, however, are grown in a garden behind the kitchen. Because there so many hours of daylight in the summer in Alaska, it extends the growing time and creates some oversized crops. Check out these huge heads of lettuce.
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Denali #56:
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The entire hilltop above the Camp Denali lodge is ablaze with color.
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Denali #55:
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On the hill above the Camp Denali lodge, I found this flaming bush.
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Denali #54:
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On one of the Camp Denali daytrips along the backroads in the park, we found this amazing valley awash with fall color.
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Denali #53:
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On a Camp Denali field trip down a backcountry road, we found this astounding valley floor.
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Denali: Crown Jewel of our National Parks #52
Denali #52:
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In Denali National Park, when fall peaks, the details are as amazing as the larger views.
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Denali #51:
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Walking along the road that parallels Wonder Lake provides one amazing fall vista after another. Look at this astounding hillside!
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Denali #50:
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A path leads up a hill above Camp Denali, and from the top there are some great distant views. At the peak of fall colors the summit, itself, is an amazing view.
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Denali #49:
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This is a hot springs creek that lies at the foot of the road that leads up to Camp Denali.
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Denali #48:
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When you stay at Camp Denali, you need not even go on a naturalist led dayhike. Wonderous things can be seen just walking around nearby. I found this just off the road that parallels Wonder Lake.
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Denali #47:
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This image was made while I was canoeing on Wonder Lake. In the foreground is Strawberry Hill, a favorite day hike of the Camp Denali naturalists. In the background is the tallest mountain in North America.
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Denali #46:
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One morning at Camp Denali, we ate breakfast before sunrise so we could get an early start on our day of hiking, as we all got into a van, the sun began to rise, and by the time we drove past Wonder Lake and began to parallel the McKinley River, the early morning light set the fall colored foothills of the Alaska Range aglow.
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Denali #45:
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Besides the main road that leads to the visitor center, Wonder Lake, and Camp Denali, there are several rugged dirt roads throughout the park and the tourist buses never drive on them. When you stay at Camp Denali, however, many of the exploratories with the naturalists do drive out on them. As you can see here, some of them lead into beautiful valleys.
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Denali #44:
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Although flying above Denali National Park is spectacular, especially in the fall, the day hikes you are taken on by the Camp Denali naturalists offer views that you would never see the intricacies of from the air.
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Denali #43:
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There are many dramatic “big views” of Denali National Park to be had, but when you stay at Camp Denali and go on the daytrips to hike you get a whole other view of the landscape. In fact, you do not even need to go on a daytrip. This is the hillside above the camp.
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Denali #42:
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When you stay at Camp Denali you never leave the park. As a consequence, your day trips encounter some spectacular sunsets and sunrises, while people in the commercial hotels outside the park are just getting started on their 6hrs.-in, 6hrs.-out bus ride.
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Denali #41:
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Moose Creek flows along the base of the hillside upon which Camp Denali is built: There is a path off the main road that parallels the creek, and in several places small streams flow into the creek. The one pictured here is particularly unusual because it comes from a hot springs. The water is relatively warm which is why the green moss is growing around the edges of the flow even though most of the surrounding shrubbery has been colored by the fall.
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Denali #40:
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Directly below the hillside upon which Camp Denali is located lies Wonder Lake surrounded by fall color in this image. It is a smashing day to be canoeing as there is no wind and the lake is very glassy. Denali looms above it all, and for a sense of scale note the tiny dot appearing from the left. That is two people paddling a canoe.
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Denali #39:
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Viewing the peak fall colors of Denali National Park gives you the overview of the larger landscape. Going out for hikes on the day trips from Camp Denali, does not offer as vast a perspective but you do get up-close-and-personal with the intermix of vegetation. This broad tundra of red would certainly be visible from the air but you would never see the delicate green lichens like those in the foreground of this picture if you were in a plane.
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Denali #38:
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After a spectacular day of flying over Denali National Park in peak fall colors, it was good to be back at Camp Denali for an evening cocktail while watching the late light grace the hillsides and the other summits in the Alaska Range.
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Denali #37:
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There very few days of the year that Denali is visible, especially the summit, but on this day it remained breathtakingly clear all day. We followed the glacier valley to the last rise of the face where we got an amazing view of the double summit. We then turned north towards Camp Denali and flew over the sheer wall which was the preferred climbing route if you were approaching from the north.
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Denali #36:
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On our return flight to Camp Denali, the weather cleared as we got closer to the heart of the range. Although Denali had a few clouds hovering above it, it was mostly blue sky, and the summit was still visible, so my pilot suggested we fly low and slow up the glacier valley and have one more look at this amazing mountain before returning to camp. It sounded like a great idea to me.
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Denali #35:
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As we get closer to the exit of the park, we encounter some weather with broken skies. The tundra landscape below us is at peak fall and the occasional rain has saturated the colors. When sunlight breaks through and illuminates the terrain the brilliant hues are hard to imagine. Even my pilot says to me that he flies over the park quite a lot, and he thinks this one of the most spectacular days he has ever seen. We do not intend to fly out of the park, however, so we will turn here and circle back towards Camp Denali.
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Denali #34:
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Another stream, another valley, all feeding into the Toklat River system. The surrounding terrain is bespectacled with fall tundra colors, and I can’t help but think of it as an amazing Persian rug.
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Denali #33:
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As we flew out of the foothills following the Toklat River valley, the light set the radiant fall colors beneath our wings aglow, to say the least. The surrounding hillsides shimmer with reds and golds, and the terrain of tundra beneath us hosts every color in the spectrum.
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Denali #32:
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At this point in our flightsee we are about half way out of the park, and we have just crossed over the Toklat River which is bonkers with fall color. The Toklat is the largest braided river that crosses the park, and it flows to the north. My pilot also sees what a fall spectacle it is, so he volunteers to turn the plane north and follow the river valley for awhile. It was well worth it.
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Denali #31:
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Another stream feeding into the McKinley River wends its way through foothills glowing with vibrant fall color. It is a spectacular day to be flightseeing.
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Denali #30:
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Having left the snow-covered summits at the heart of the Alaska Range, we are flying over fall colored foothills and feeder streams whose waters will eventually join the McKinley River. The McKinley River is sizable, and one of several obstacles to be dealt with for climbers approaching the Denali climb from the north side.
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Denali #29:
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As we fly east over the park, the major peaks of the Alaska Range slowly disappear. That is Denali in the background, but we are now over the substantial foothills of the range, and the snow cover has given way to the brilliant colors of fall.
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Denali #28:
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This is 17,400ft. Mount Foraker. It is the second highest peak in the Alaska Range, and the third highest peak in the United States. Like Denali it is snowclad, and supports numerous glaciers.
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Denali #27:
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On this particular clear-day flightsee, we flew up one of the glacial valleys to have a look at the summit of Denali (previous post), and then flew down the Alaska Range in the direction of the park entrance. This flight path took us by some very rugged features of the range, including other large mountains, and some truly sheer walls.
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Denali #26:
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Denali is certainly the primary spectacle of a flightsee, but the rest of the Alaska Range is also very dramatic with many glaciers, and numerous other ragged peaks and walls.
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Denali #25:
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On approach to Denali from Kantishna, you first encounter a formidable wall which climbers had to ascend when approaching from this side. At the top of the wall there is a sharp ridge that overlooks a glacier, and which also leads to the summit. On this day it was so clear Denali's double summit is fully in view. A GREAT day to be flying!
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Denali #24:
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In the course of my many visits to Camp Denali, I have had three clear days that allowed me to flightsee the mountain and surrounding range. Leaving from the small airstrip at Kantishna, about 3-miles from Camp Denali, the first part of your journey takes you above the tundra, and from that point of view you can see numerous rivers and small lakes that are not visible from ground level.
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Denali #23:
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One of my favorite areas to hike when the fall colors are peaking is this rolling tundra. The Camp Denali guides start what is about a 6-mile walk by taking you down into the deep river valley you see in the top right of this shot. You hike a good distance up the river valley, and then ascend one the sloping hills to emerge at the far end of these tundra fields, after which you walk back across them to reach the road. Although I have never had an encounter here, I have seen bear in these meadows as well.
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Denali #22:
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The Mckinley river parallels the Alaska Range flowing past the foot of Denali. On its route through the park, it passes many glaciers and glacial valleys all of which feed streams that merge into the Mckinley, such as this one.
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Denali #21:
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On cold fall nights Wonder Lake often steams. As it is directly below the ridge on which Camp Denali is built, it is an easy walk down, and on this particular morning the steaming lake has frosted much of the tundra. When the sun reaches here the frost will melt off in minutes.
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Denali #20:
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On a stunningly clear morning at the southern end of Wonder Lake, Denali looms above a tundra ablaze with color.
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Denali #19:
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In these particular foothills there are often many goats to be seen grazing at the higher elevations, so the Camp Denali bus often stops here to let the guests watch and take pictures.
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Denali #18:
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Behind the library at Camp Denali, and directly in front of the dining room windows is a pond that in the fall is surrounded by a sea of color. On many mornings a moose appears, wading into the pond to graze. On my last visit she brought her young calf with her.
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Denali #17:
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Something you will only see if you are staying at Camp Denali, the sun setting on Denali and the Alaska Range. If you are staying at one of the hotels outside the park, you might not even have a sunset.
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Denali #16:
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As fall descends on Denali National Park, the green of summer gives way to a broad array of fall colors.
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Denali #15:
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At the base of the ridge upon which Camp Denali ( ) is built flows Moose Creek. There is a path that parallels the creek, mostly used by fishermen. On an afternoon when my kids, and I, chose not to go on a guided trip, we walked down the hill from the camp, and followed the creekside path. About 1/2 mile along it, a side stream entered into Moose Creek, and we found that it was flowing from a hot spring. Curious, we decided to follow it for a while, and we found ourselves surrounded by an especially verdant habitat of brilliant fall colors, and lush green mosses.
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Denali #14:
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This particular burst of fall color also holds a special treat, there are A LOT of edible berries here.
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Denali #13:
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The fall colors of Denali National Park are especially dramatic from the air. Here a river valley is, literally, awash with color.
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Denali #12:
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After an all night rain, the fall landscape of Denali National Park is aglow with saturated color.
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Denali #11:
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On many days, weather builds above the Alaska Range as heat rises off the valley floor and creates thunderstorms. If you are staying at one of the hotels outside the park, you may not be having any weather encounters at all, but at Camp Denali you are housed looking at some of the tallest peaks in the range, and often there are some spectacular displays of lightening and/or rainbows. This evening we have a vibrant main bow, and a faint second bow echoing it.
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Denali #10:
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The naturalist that guide the day hikes at Camp Denali are fabulous, and especially good if they sense any curiosity in the accompanying children. Here one of them sits down with Travis and Talja to identify various wildflowers from her ID manual.
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Denali #9:
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At the peak of fall, the tundra surrounding Wonder Lake shows off its interwoven diversity with an unparalleled display of color. Each plant has its own hue, and it makes clear how complex the growth is.
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Denali #8:
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Peak fall colors in Denali National Park surround you at all levels. In the last post, I was down on my hands and knees, grazing blueberries. Here, I am pondering a fairly expansive landscape that is equally colorful. The evergreens are a perfect foil to set off the golden patches of deciduous trees, and the deep red of the tundra. The naturalists that guide the daily hikes at Camp Denali take you to a different location everyday, and all of them offer spectacular presentations of fall color.
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Denali #7:
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In many places the fall red of the tundra is interlaced with grasses and vines, and often various edible berries can be found and grazed upon. There are numerous blueberries hiding in this mosaic, and I am nibbling away.
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Denali #6:
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When you stay at Camp Denali, every day you have several options to go hiking, and when peak fall descends on the landscape of the park, pretty much walking anywhere is a spectacle of color. The terrain is dotted by evergreens, and clusters of deciduous trees that tend to turn gold, but that is only part of the color show. There are many scrub bushes that also turn, and the tundra covered terrain of Denali becomes a deep red.
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Denali #5:
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Once we got the Camp Denali canoes unlocked, Travis, Talja, and I, headed out into the glassy waters of Wonder Lake. Denali loomed over the far end of the lake, and cast a near perfect reflection in front of us. Pretty much the only ripples were ones of our making. A good morning was had by all.
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Denali #4:
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At the foot of the ridge on which Camp Denali is built, lies Wonder Lake, where several canoes are maintained for the use of the guests. On this particular morning, Denali was “out” under a perfectly clear sky, so after breakfast, Travis, Talja, and I, decided we would walk down the hill, and canoe on the lake to take in the stunning view. Actually, there was more to see than just Denali. The sunrise creeping down Strawberry Ridge, was being reflected in the still waters of the lake, and that was a show worth taking in, as well.
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Denali #3:
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There are many advantages to staying in Camp Denali, besides the amazing view of the mountain, the knowledgeable naturalist/guides, the great food, and the informative evening programs, for one, when you wake up you are inside the park staring at Denali. About this same time, all of those staying in the hotels outside the park are having breakfast prior to their 6hr. drive each way, that only takes them to the halfway point of the park road. At Camp Denali on a clear day, you will likely be having breakfast looking at this. No one staying outside the park will ever see a sunrise on the summit.
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Denali #2:
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To the disappointment of many, when they get to the Eielson Visitor Center, where you do have a distant view of the mountain, you still may not see it, because Denali generates its own weather and is only visible about 45 days of the year, many of them in the winter. Lots of tourist who have had multiple visits to the park still have never see Denali. There is lodging within the park in a spectacular setting that looks directly at the mountain, and overlooks wonder lake. Called Camp Denali, it hosts 19 rustic log cabins on a high ridge, along with a library, several equipments sheds, a large dining hall, and kitchen. The cabins have no electricity, but use kerosene lamps, and are heated by a potbelly stove. Nor is there running water, but just off the cabin porch (that faces Denali) there is a water pump. The cabin beds are covered with quilts, and although spare, the accommodations are VERY comfortable. This lodging is the VERY best way to really see the park, and the peak, but it does not come cheaply, costing $1,100 per night, per person with a minimum stay of 3-days. The price is all inclusive, the dining is fabulous, and the daily guided hikes are led by knowledgable naturalists. Denali is part of the 600-mile long Alaska Range many peaks of which are 10,000ft or greater. Often the range is below the cloudline that so often surrounds Denali summit, and until the mountain can be seen, guests often ask, “how much bigger is Denali than the summits in the range?” This picture gives you a clue. Look carefully at the cloud layers in the upper right. That is just a small portion of the mountains face, peaking out between the clouds.
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Denali: Crown Jewel of our National Parks #1
At 20,310ft., Denali is the tallest mountain in North America, and the center piece of the surrounding park and preserve that covers a staggering 6,045,153-acres. There is only one road in the park, and from the park entrance to Kantishna at the end of the road, it is 135-miles long, and mostly gravel. Most who visit the park stay in a concentration of hotels just outside the park, and wake early to eat breakfast and board a bus that will take them in. Around midday they will arrive at the Eielson Visitor Center, which, to the surprise of many, is as far as the bus will go before turning back. I say “surprise” because they are still many miles away from Denali, although it can be seen with telescopes and binoculars. Just to get to this point, and return back to their hotels, takes ALL day, and they have only driven 1/2 the road.
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