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Friday, June 23, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island by Robert Glenn Ketchum

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island 

by Robert Glenn Ketchum





To attempt some interesting kayak adventures, Carey and I needed a camp assistant, so Russell joined us to help.  
~Robert Glenn Ketchum




Friday, June 23, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #73
Glacier #73:
During breakfast the next morning, the rain started. It did not concern us, however, because soon our boat would come to take us back to Sitka, where we could spend the day eating in good restaurants, and sleep in a warm hotel bed, rather than a sleeping bag.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
@RbtGlennKetchum @RobertGKetchum @LittleBearProd #LittleBearProd

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Friday, June 16, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #72
Glacier #72:
As the sun set, we returned to our U.S. Forest Service cabin, and fixed our dinner. We had been very lucky during our four days on Kruzof Island, and never had any weather to deal with, but as we finished our meal, that began to change. Sitka and Kruzof take alot of rain because they extend into the Pacific, and it looked like it would be raining by morning when our boat was coming to pick us up and take us back to Sitka.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
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Friday, June 9, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #71
Glacier #71:
Just as the sun was going down we arrived at the end of the trail and could see the beach. We decided to stop and have some snacks, but because the ground was so saturated, there was no place to sit without getting wet, so we decided to climb onto this fallen tree while we ate.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
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Friday, June 2, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #70
Glacier #70:
We were getting close to the beach and our cabin, which was a good thing as the late light indicated it would be dark soon.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
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Friday, May 26, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #69
Glacier #69:
As we were following the same trail out on which we came in, once again we were endlessly meandering around swamps and bogs.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
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Friday, May 19, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #68
Glacier #68:
One last clear view of the Kruzof volcanoe and then we need to make a brisk slog back to our cabin before darkness falls.


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Friday, May 12, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #67
Glacier #67:
Given that most of this trail was a muddy rut in the tundra, it was a good thing that we chose to hike in our knee high rain boots as opposed to traditional hiking boots. By now they would be soaked through and our feet would be squishing around inside them with every step.


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Friday, May 5, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #66
Glacier #66:
At this point in our 6-mile hike to climb the Kruzof volcano, we could see the volcano in the distance but we were still a long way away by the trail slog. We started what we thought would be an easy 2-3hr. walk at about 7a.m. and it was now 3p.m. and this would be as close as we would get. There was no way I wanted to spend the night walking out on this trail, so we turned and started back to our cabin.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
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Friday, April 28, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #65
Glacier #65:
The “easy” 6-mile hike to the Kruzof volcano was in fact a boot-sucking slog along a flooded trail that meandered around dozens of bogs and swamps. Other parts of the landscape were like this, an impassable thrash of stunted trees and interwoven bushes.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
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Friday, April 21, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #64
Glacier #64:
The farther into the interior of Kruzof Island we went, the wetter the terrain became. There were now bog ponds everywhere, and the landscape was so saturated it stunted the growth of trees. The trail had to meander a lot to work its way around all of these obstacles, and it made for very slow going. This was going to take much longer than we expected, even if it was only 6-miles.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
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Friday, April 14, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #63
Glacier #63:
There was a trail through the tundra, but it was super saturated and bog-like,. In the worst places some boards had been laid down, but most of it was a mud-filed rut through the terrain. It would have been impossible to climb any hillside in these conditions, so thankfully the Forest Service had built numerous small staircases along the route.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
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Friday, April 7, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #62
Glacier #62:
The trail that led to the Kruzof volcano began right next to our Forest Service cabin. So, early in the morning we packed day hike packs with food, water, and rain gear, and started into the tundra covered interior of the island. The trail was only 6-miles in length, so we were very confident that this was going to be an easy hike. With no pun intended, however, things soon began to bog down.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
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Friday, March 31, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #61
Glacier #61:
We had been having really good weather, and if it held we planned to hike a trail that led to the interior of the island and ultimately, the volcano. The trail started from the beach on one side of the cabin, and it was only six miles to the volcano, so it seemed like it should not have been a long hike to get there.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
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Friday, March 24, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #60
Glacier #60:
Kruzof Island is not far offshore from Sitka and the island's volcano dominates the western skyline of Sitka. The boat ride to the island took less than an hour, and the Forest Service cabin we had rented sat on the beach just above the high tide line. The cabin was in great shape, no broken windows, screens over anything that opened to the outside, and a nice big wood stove that made cooking effortless and kept the cabin cozy at night. The beach was a spectacle of bull kelp debris, that changed designs every time the tide came in and went back out.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
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Friday, March 17, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #59
Glacier #59:
Russell Daggatt, Carey, and I took the ferry from GlacierBay to Juneau where we booked a flight to Sitka. Carey and I had been in Sitka many times and it was one of our favorite cities in southeast, so we spent a few nights in a hotel and showed Russell around the town. We also bought supplies for next adventure, and we connected with a boat captain in the harbor that would take us to Kruzof Island where we had rented a US Forest Service cabin for several days.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
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Friday, March 10, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #58
Glacier #58:
Just past the midpoint of our journey across Glacier Bay headed for the park service headquarters in Bartlett Cove, the rocky snow covered summits have given way to lower, forested mountains, and many islands now dot the bay. This one hosts a seagull rookery.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
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Friday, March 3, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #57
Glacier #57:
As we progress on our journey to cross Glacier Bay and return to the park service headquarters in Bartlett Cove, our catamaran glides beneath numerous summits. However, the summits are now less high and less snow covered as well. By the time we reach mid-bay the forest will grace most of the surrounding mountains, and when we get to the cove there will not be any mountains at all.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
@RbtGlennKetchum @RobertGKetchum @LittleBearProd #LittleBearProd

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Friday, February 24, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #56
Glacier #56:
For the first half of the journey across Glacier Bay to Bartlett cove, the national park service catamaran is surround by many snow-capped summits that are glowing in the late evening light that breaks through the cloud cover.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
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Friday, February 17, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #55
Glacier #55:
At the start of the Glacier Bay crossing, we are still surrounded by some big mountains that will diminish as we travel towards Bartlet Cove, but in the meantime, the sunspots and the surrounding summits put on quite a show.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
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Friday, February 10, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #54
Glacier #54:
The National Park Service catamaran arrives around 4p,m, as we are the last pick-up location. Once the gear and the kayaks are loaded onboard, the catamaran will cruise to the mouth of Johns Hopkins Inlet so that everyone can have a look down the arm, and then the boat will begin a multi-hour journey across Glacier Bay to the park headquarters at Bartlet Cove. There is no breeze and the sun is constantly breaking through the light cloud cover, so this should be a very pleasant cruise, and we left all the insects behind.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
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Friday, February 3, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #53
Glacier #53:
While Russell Daggatt is observing a bear on the far shore, Carey and I have begun the paddle to Ptarmigan Creek beach where we will camp for the night and be picked-up later the next day by the National Park Service catamaran. There will be others waiting at the beach as well, but there is plenty of room to camp. The most unpleasant aspect of being on that beach is that it swarms with mosquitoes so we will be in headnets for the next twenty hours, or so. Above is the glacier that marks the mouth of Johns Hopkins Inlet. We are about to leave the arm and paddle into the greater Glacier Bay.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
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Friday, January 27, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #52
Glacier #52:
When we filed our camping plan with the park ranger, he told us not to camp on the side you see here because there was a rogue grizzly that had recently attacked some campers. Russell was in the solo kayak and he knew he could catch up with us later so he asked if it would be okay to cross to that side for a chance that he might see the bear, and we were fine with that, so he broke off, and headed across the arm. Soon thereafter, paddling along the ledge, he did come upon the bear, and he started taking pictures of him. For awhile the bear just strolled along the embankment, but then it suddenly started running, which made Russell curios to follow. The bear bolted down the embankment onto to beach, turned immediately to the water where Russell sat in his kayak, at which point the bear dove in and started swimming towards him. Russell said that he is pretty sure he is the first person to get a kayak to hydroplane when he paddled furiously to get away. Hahaha!


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
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Friday, January 20, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #51
Glacier #51:
This is the view of where we head when we leave Johns Hopkins Inlet and begin our paddle to Ptarmigan beach where we will be picked the next day. In the distance of this shoi, you can just make out a shelf which ultimately leads down to a broad beach formed by the delta of a river.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
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Friday, January 13, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #50
Glacier #50:
I brought both my Pentax 6x7 and my 645 with me on this trip. The 6x7 is too awkward to hand-hold,. so I leave it set up on a tripod, and I take the 645 with me when we kayak around. I had positioned the 6x7 on the tripod to face the dramatic end of the Johns Hopkins arm, and I repeatedly took pictures of the changing light and ice conditions. Russell teased me asking how many pictures of the end of the arm did I need, but assured him that there would likely only be one of them that really worked, This is it. With camped broken down and the boats loaded and ready to go, my last task was to put the 6x7 away. When I went to retrieve it, I saw this though the lens, and it became my last shot from our camp ledge.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
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Friday, January 6, 2023

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #49
Glacier #49:
Here is another view of our snug pitch. Tomorrow we will paddle to Ptarmigan Beach where we will camp overnight, awaiting our pick up the following day by the park service catamaran. Remarkably, in the ten days of this trip, it has not rained once. We are very fortunate. As a consequence, Russell has the luxury of organizing his gear outside of the tent, which is what he is doing here.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2023,
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Friday, December 30, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #48
Glacier #48:
Now back in camp, I scale the glaciated rocks above the site where we have pitched our tents. The exposed rocks have extremely variegated colors, accentuated by the blue shade we are now in. They also host small plant gardens and clusters of lichens. There is a lot of life here for such a hostile environment.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2022,
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Friday, December 23, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #47
Glacier #47:
Headed back to our camp after another day of exploring Johns Hopkins Inlet, we discover this “weeping wall”. Somewhere much further above us, glacial ice is melting and providing a constant trickle of water that flows down the sheer rock wall in front of us. Despite the fact that the water is very cold, these plants seem to thrive in it, and have blossomed into a garden.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2022,
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Friday, December 16, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #46
Glacier #46:
Some days we have big ice, some days we just have brash, which makes paddling around Johns Hopkins Inlet much easier.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2022,
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Friday, December 9, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #45
Glacier #45:
This wall in Johns Hopkins Inlet hosts a small bird rookery, but it is the pale green lichen covering it that makes it so notable.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2022,
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Friday, December 2, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #44
Glacier #44:
During our days of exploring Johns Hopkins Inlet by kayak, Carey, Russell Daggatt, and I, discover some amazing ice and rock features. Here is a huge vein of Fool’s Gold that has been beautifully polished by a glacier.


photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2022,
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Friday, November 25, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #43
Glacier #43:
This glacier is about three hundred yards down the inlet from our camp, so we are inspecting it more closely as we paddle back from our day of seal watching. This does calve, but because of the position of our campsite, it offers no threat to us. Any big ice it might drop would send a wave across the inlet to the opposite shore.

photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2022,
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Friday, November 18, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #42
Glacier #42:
On our second day, we wanted to press through the denser ice and get closer to the terminal glacial face at the end of Johns Hopkins Inlet. We will probably not get much closer than this because the ice is now wall-to-wall, however, we have discovered something interesting. The are dozens of seals lying about on the larger floes. There is actually a considerable colony of them, and they are here because the ice is packed together tightly, and they can lie about, and relax, without having to worry about Orcas sneaking up on them. Carey is watching them through binoculars.

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Friday, November 11, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #41
Glacier #41:
Having spent the first day in Johns Hopkins Inlet exploring our immediate vicinity, in relatively open water away from the terminal glacial face, we return to our camp terrace and prepare some dinner. If you are unfamiliar with compact Butterfly camp stoves, they are quite clever, and you can see one in use here. The stove is a small cylinder that has fold out support legs, and also fold out pan support legs. The stove attaches directly to the fuel bottle (silver in this pic), and is primed by pump pressure, so it will ignite every time, even in cold weather. We don’t carry plates in our gear and eat mainly from cooking pans, or as Carey is doing here, from her Sierra cup. In 3hrs., where we are seated will be underwater.

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Friday, November 4, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #40
Glacier #40:
Another spectacle of our paddles around Johns Hopkins Inlet was this “weeping” wall. Under a constant rain of water mosses grow, and the saturated colors of gold seem to be glowing.

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Friday, October 28, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #39
Glacier #39:
As in the last two posts, our campmate, Russell Daggatt, provides a sense of scale, paddling up to a big wall and into a deep crack.

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Friday, October 21, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #38
Glacier #38
Johns Hopkins Inlet is a large fjord with much to explore so over 6-days we paddled every nook and cranny. In the last post, Russell Daggatt provided some sense of scale with the backdrop of a huge mudslide. Here, he is doing so once again, as he approaches the foot of one of the many glaciers in the fjord that reach tidewater.

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Friday, October 14, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #37
Glacier #37
On our first full day in Johns Hopkins Inlet, we just picked our way through the ice, and toured around. We had paddled towards the glacier at the head of the fjord, when we saw this evidence of a massive mud slide on the opposite shore. Russell has navigated closer to it, and his presence serves to show the scale of this slide. It would have been amazing to have seen this happen.

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Friday, October 7, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #36
This is the “kitchen” of our camp. The high tideline is about where Russell’s head is, so the Butterfly stoves and cooking pots are on a small shelf where Carey is kneeling. Our camp is well above all of this. The point of cooking here is any spilled food, or food scent, will be erased by tide when it comes up in a few hours. This is a precaution to prevent any bear attraction. While it is not likely there are bears on our side of the inlet, there is no sure thing, and there are plenty of them in Glacier Bay. In fact, we were specifically told by the ranger, not to camp on the opposite shore because there was an aggressive grizzly roaming over there that had attacked some previous kayak campers.

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Friday, September 30, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #35
Glacier Bay #35:  
The edge of the tundra meadow upon which we are camping gives way to some marbled granite, which eventually plunges down into the fjord. This is the view across the arm, and back towards the mouth of the fjord. That is one of many glaciers that reach tidewater in Johns Hopkins Inlet.

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Friday, September 23, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #34
Glacier Bay #34:  
The closest we came to ever having company, was on the morning of the 4th day, a Princess Cruise boat came into the head of the inlet. There was a lot of ice, so they did not venture down the arm, they were just having a look around. But, a cruise boat is a large vessel, and their presence offered a striking contrast to the scale of the landscape in which we found ourselves. As you can see here, this huge ship looks like a small charter vessel against the backdrop of Johns Hopkins Inlet.

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Friday, September 16, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #33
Glacier Bay #33:  
At water level, our camp was surrounded by ice floating in and out on the tide. At times it was navigably spread out, but at other times the tide compacted it into a dense mass. Watching that flow back and forth from our camp was spectacular, and being in the arm was a great kayaking moment. Amazingly, in our entire 10-day trip, we never saw any other campers.

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Friday, September 9, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #32
Glacier Bay #32:  
We had been warned by the park service rangers that there was a rogue bear on the north side of the arm in Johns Hopkins Inlet. We were also told that the the south side of the arm would be relatively safe, so that is where we established our camp. As we surveyed our surroundings, it became clear why we were in a safer place. We were surrounded by some very vertical rock walls rising into glacier-capped summits, and for a bear, there were no exposed beaches, zero access to food, and difficult terrain to navigate, so why would they hunt on this side.

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Friday, September 2, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #31
Glacier Bay #31:  
There are parts of our camping terrace in Johns Hopkins Inlet that have no meadow, they are glacially polished rocks, and they offer a dazzling conglomeration of minerals that radiate quite a display of color.

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Friday, August 26, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #30
Glacier Bay #30:  
This is the view in the other direction from the last post, looking down Johns Hopkins Inlet to where the glacier terminates at tidewater. As you can see, our tent placements afford us quite a spectacular view. Our kayaks are on some lower benches just over the edge of the meadow, and completely out of the water. Because there is always the possibility of having a bear show up, there is no food anywhere near our tents, and our “kitchen”, a cluster of small, high-burn, Hummingbird stoves, is highly portable, so when we cook, we go down the ledges and set up below the high tideline, that way any grease, or food that is spilled, is washed away when the tide comes, and the scent is erased from the rocks.

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Friday, August 19, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #29
Glacier Bay #29:  
Having spent the morning working our way down the western shore of Johns Hopkins Inlet, while we search for a suitable campsite, about midway into the arm we finally find a spot that offers everything we need. There is a tundra covered bench well above the high tideline with ample room for our two tents, and a meltwater stream running through the meadow and down to the water’s edge. A series of smooth rock ledges rising to the terrace make disembarking from the kayaks easy to do, and pulling the kayaks up above the tideline easy to accomplish. This is the view from our new camp looking towards the entrance of the arm, where we started the morning.

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Friday, August 12, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #28
Glacier Bay #28:  
After our first rather exciting day at the Lamplugh Glacier, the next morning we moved to establish another camp in Johns Hopkins Inlet. It was a short paddle from our cove to round the point on the western shore, and enter the arm. Then the real work began. We needed to find an approachable terrace above the high tideline, that would provide freshwater, and offer enough tundra meadow to set up our tents. We paddle close to the wall where dozens of streams flow down, and when one is less than vertical, someone clambers ashore, and explores the terrain to see if it would support our camp. We do this numerous times with little success, but about 1/2 way down the inlet, we finally score a perch, and one with quite a view.

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Friday, August 5, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #27
Glacier Bay #27:  
Russell was about 1/2-hour into his hike alongside the Lamplugh Glacier, and I left my camera on the ledge next to the glacier, to return to Carey and the camp to have some snacks. Sitting at the front our tent, we had a great view across the entire bay in front of the glacier, when suddenly we heard a loud cracking noise. To our amazement, it was not just an isolated pinnacle calving, the entire glacial face was collapsing. Carey, and I, quickly scrambled to the edge of our terrace to make sure our kayaks were okay, and once the ice face plunged into the water, the impact generated a perfectly shaped 10ft wave, that rolled around to corner of our cove, crashing onto our shoreline, and our kayaks. It did not damage to them, but it did float them off the beach. Fortunately they were tethered with long ropes, so they drifted out a bit as the water receded, but they were not swept away. This is the remnants of the collapse on our beach at low tide the next morning.

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Friday, July 29, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #26
Glacier Bay #26:  
Having previously scouted the process of using the park service catamaran to be dropped at one of the three locations from which to stage camping trips in Glacier Bay, I intended to do a 10-day kayak trip into Johns Hopkins Inlet, with my wife, Carey. and our friend, Russell Daggatt. Our starting point would be the drop beach at Ptarmigan Creek, the last stop for the catamaran. From there we paddled to a cove on the the side of the Lamplugh Glacier. The glacial face was over 100ft high, and actively calving, but the cove was off to the side, parallel to the face, and it had an elevated terrace well above the shoreline, where we pitched our tents. We were not in any danger of having ice fall on us, but a big calving might send out a wave that could possibly sweep the beach, so our tents were high enough to be above any such event. After setting up camp, and securing the kayaks, Russell wanted to hike up a trail alongside the glacier, and I found a ledge next to the glacial face where I set up my camera to see if something might happen. Be careful what you wish for!

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Friday, July 22, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #25
Glacier Bay #25:  
Russell was totally excited by the proposal to come help Carey, and I, all summer in Alaska, so we advised him about clothing and gear, and got ourselves all set up. My Aperture book, "The Tongass: Alaska’s Vanishing Rainforest” had already been published, so there was no further work to be done, and this coming summer visit was going be dedicated to just enjoying places in the state we had not yet explored. It would be a good time to be had by all.

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Friday, July 15, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #24
Glacier Bay #24:  
My wife, Carey, and I, had a good deal of kayak experience, and yet to really make this trip work for me, I would need a fit assistant. Our neighbor, and friend, in Manhattan Beach, Russell Daggatt, was the perfect choice. He was fit, a good athlete, and he wanted to see Alaska, as he had never been there before. So, we all went out to dinner, and I laid out my plans. He would come with us for most of the summer, and the first kayak camping we would do, would be to go into Tracy Arm, a deep fjord in the Tongass rainforest for 10-days. Following that, we would visit some friends in Port Protection, and from there we would fly to Gustavus, prepare our gear, and rent our kayaks, launching on the park service catamaran the next day, also a 10-day trip.

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Friday, July 8, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #23
Glacier Bay #23:  
On a stellar catamaran cruise back to Bartlet Cove, I was pondering the beauty of the alpine glow in the late light on the surrounding summits, and considering all that I had learned on my previous tours. I now knew the routine of the three available drop off points, and what access each of them offered. I knew how to get the kayaks we could use, and I was clear that I wanted to put off at Ptarmigan Creek, the last drop point, and kayak into Johns Hopkins Inlet.

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Friday, July 1, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #22
Glacier Bay #22:  
Passengers aboard the park service catamaran have now been out most of the day. There has been lots of visits to glacial faces to watch calving. We followed roaming bears along the beaches, and we have watched mountain goats grazing in vertical terrain. Birds, and bird rookeries, are everywhere, so we have passed by a lot of them as well. Now, as the sun is beginning to set, it is time to head back to the park service headquarters in Gustavus. This will be a direct run with no further stops, but the views are still fantastic, and at this end of Glacier Bay, we are still surrounded by some considerable summits that are now glowing with late light. Being aboard the all-day catamaran tour of Glacier Bay is one of the best day trips in all of Alaska.

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Friday, June 24, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #21
Glacier Bay #21:  
The park service catamaran does not go to far into Johns Hopkins Inlet as there is so much ice, but it does linger for awhile so the passengers can enjoy the beauty of this fjord. There are numerous summits, almost all of which host glaciers, and at the lower elevations, nearest the waterline, there are granite terraces and benches, and many streams. Onboard are several park rangers on every trip to answer questions, and so I ask one about camping in the arm, and I am told it is very doable, and actually a relatively short kayak paddle from the Ptarmigan Creek drop off point. This was a camping trip that I totally wanted to do.

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Friday, June 17, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #20
Glacier Bay #20:  
The national park service catamaran’s last hiker/kayaker drop off occurs at Ptarmigan Creek, a gravel-covered beach deep into Glacier Bay. After all the gear and people are offloaded, the catamaran goes a short distance further and enters a dramatic fjord called Johns Hopkins Inlet. It is a long arm choked with ice and it terminates with a pyramidal mountain which has spawned a broad glacier that descends to the waterline. In fact, the entire inlet is encircled by some impressive summits, and numerous glaciers.

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Friday, June 10, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #19
Glacier Bay #19:  
Unless you enter Glacier Bay with your own boat, there is no way to access this part of the park unless you enjoy the park service’s all-day catamaran tour. Always worth the ride, and never a dull moment.

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Friday, June 3, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #18
Glacier Bay #18:  
The deeper into Glacier Bay you go, as you travel on the park service’s catamaran, the taller the summits become.

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Friday, May 27, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #17
Glacier Bay #17:  
11,000ft. summits disappearing, and reappearing, as the clouds stream through.

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Friday, May 20, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #16
Glacier Bay #16:  
As I mentioned in an early post to this blog, being on the national park service’s catamaran offers up some breathtaking “reveals.” Our boat will be paralleling a big face that suddenly ends, and gives way to a deep bay. In this case, as we emerge from behind a 9,000ft. wall, the bay reveals an 11,000ft. summit generating glaciers on two sides that merge together at tidewater, and are actively calving, filling the bay with sizable icebergs.

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Friday, May 13, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #15
Glacier Bay #15:  
Not all summits are snow-covered, or generating glaciers. This one is just a truly massive granite dome. Mind-bogglingly sheer, this wall of rock rises above 10,000ft. and is nearly a mile wide at its base. There are probably mountain goats up there somewhere.

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Friday, May 6, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #14
Glacier Bay #14:  
As the national park service’s catamaran navigates deeper into Glacier Bay, the surrounding mountains get considerably higher, and numerous glaciers descend to the tidewater. In this image I am looking up at an 11,000ft+ summit, that has spun off a huge glacier whose face is just several hundred yards from our passing boat. It appears that the winds are howling at the higher elevations, because they are generating clouds streaming off the backside of this peak.

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Friday, April 29, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #13
Glacier Bay #13:  
Another pleasure of touring Glacier Bay on the park service’s catamaran, is that as it motors along, passing bays, and fjords, it offers up some spectacular “reveals” of the surrounding landscape, like this one. The foreground to the right is a huge, ice free, granite dome, but as we come around the corner of it, we encounter a bay encircled by 11,000ft. summits, all feeding into a glacier that has descended to tidewater.

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Friday, April 22, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #12
Glacier Bay #12:  
Deeper into Glacier Bay where the mountains rise to thousands of feet, the weather not only streams over and through them, but it causes some very dramatic now-you-see-it, now-you-don’t views. Here a wind driven fog swirls around a granite dome, and backs up against the mountain behind. Within minutes the mountain could longer be seen.

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Friday, April 15, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #11
Glacier Bay #11:  
Because the mouth of Glacier Bay opens to a straight that leads almost immediately to the Pacific Ocean, the bay is constantly swept by weather. Of the many day trips that I made on the park service’s catamaran, almost all of them provided an all day sky show. Streaming clouds, banks of fog, rain, and rainbows, offered numerous weather spectacles as the catamaran made its rounds.

photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2022,
@RbtGlennKetchum @RobertGKetchum @LittleBearProd #LittleBearProd

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Friday, April 8, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #10
Glacier Bay #10:  
Many times the weather passing through Glacier Bay is driven by winds, and the clouds literally flow over, and around, the encircling mountains. Here these clouds are coming from the mouth of the bay, to the right, and they are being driven by a fairly strong wind, so you can see them streaming off the backside of the peak to the left. It is an amazing spectacle to watch.

photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2022,
@RbtGlennKetchum @RobertGKetchum @LittleBearProd #LittleBearProd

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Friday, April 1, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #9
Glacier Bay #9:  
Except for an occasional clear day, Glacier Bay is a weather show. It is a huge, cold body of water encircled but summits, many of which exceed 12,000ft. While it may not rain, there is a rather constant skyshow, and sometimes a good bit of water level fog as well.

photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2022,
@RbtGlennKetchum @RobertGKetchum @LittleBearProd #LittleBearProd

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Friday, March 25, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #8
Glacier Bay #8:  
On the park service’s catamaran tour around Glacier Bay, this was a very dramatic stop that lasted about 2hrs. Above this sheer rock wall, there were verdant meadows where many nanny mountain goats were grazing with their young ones, but below them a big male was navigating some very marginal ledges. When he got to this big crack, he attempted to jump across, but failed and fell into it. Time after time, he tried to crawl out, but just kept falling back in. Most of us aboard who were watching this, thought that we were going to witness a very tragic event. However, if you look closely here you can see his white body nearly at the top of the crack. That is the farthest up he had been able to climb, and with a few more deft moves, he finally walked out onto the ledges to the right.

photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2022,
@RbtGlennKetchum @RobertGKetchum @LittleBearProd #LittleBearProd

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Friday, March 18, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #7
Glacier Bay #7:  
When I said seagulls occupy every nook, cranny, and ledge on the vertical wall, I was not kidding, as you can see. Some nest, some just rest, and many adults who have been fishing, are feeding their immature offspring. As big as the passing catamaran is, the birds seem to barely notice its presence because it passes by everyday.

photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2022,
@RbtGlennKetchum @RobertGKetchum @LittleBearProd #LittleBearProd

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Friday, March 11, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #6
Glacier Bay #6:  
This is a typical cliffside rookery. As you can see, seagulls are everywhere, on the ice, in the water, in the air, and all over the ledges on the rock wall. The park service catamaran cruises locations like this slowly so guests can observe and take pictures, and so the bird are not disturbed and fly off. Because this happens everyday, the birds know the passing boat and passengers are no threat to them, just curious voyeurs.

photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2022,
@RbtGlennKetchum @RobertGKetchum @LittleBearProd #LittleBearProd

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Friday, March 4, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #5
Glacier Bay #5:  
In Glacier Bay, birds abound. The bay is an abundant food source for them, and the steep granite walls provide ledges and nooks where nests can be established without threats from four-legged predators. Of the many bird species, seagulls are the most prevalent, and they love to fly behind the park service catamaran because it churns up the water and brings small fish nearer to the surface.

photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2022,
@RbtGlennKetchum @RobertGKetchum @LittleBearProd #LittleBearProd

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Friday, February 25, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #4
Glacier Bay #4:  
I have toured Glacier Bay a dozen times, but always by using the all-day catamaran cruise offered by the National Park Service. From those excursions I gleaned the necessary information to organize our proposed 10-day kayaking trip, but I am going to post many pictures over the next few weeks that were made during cruises on the catamaran. The catamaran departs every morning from Bartlet Cove where the park services has headquarters, and also provides food, and lodging for park visitors. The cruise follows the shoreline around the bay, stopping to watch various animals, and calving glaciers. It also stops at three specific places to drop off, and pick up, backpackers, and kayakers. The bay teems with wildlife as you can see here, with sea lions bedecking the rock, and gulls clustered on the open water.

photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2022,
@RbtGlennKetchum @RobertGKetchum @LittleBearProd #LittleBearProd

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Friday, February 18, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #3
Glacier Bay #3:  
Much of the food consumed in Port Protection, population of 48, was shared fresh catch, or deer kill. One night we had a fabulous venison stew, on another, halibut, and on this night we will have Dungeness crab. On a nice sunny day, Carey, and Ed (above), Russell, and I, as well as Ed’s partner, are headed out to his crab pot locations to see what we might have for dinner. Yum, as usual!

photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2022,
@RbtGlennKetchum @RobertGKetchum @LittleBearProd #LittleBearProd

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Friday, February 11, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #2
Glacier Bay #2:  
In the summer that our friend, Russel Daggatt, joined Carey, and I, for some adventures in the Tongass, the first thing we did was a 10-day Kayak trip into Tracey Arm. To recover from that, we thought Russell would enjoy the community of Port Protection, and meeting our friend, Ed Mura, who was the mayor, so we flew from Juneau to Port P (above). The three of us camped on Ed’s living room floor for 3-days, while we gorged on local delicacies, and prepared our gear for our next adventure, another 10-day kayaking trip, this time in Glacier Bay.

photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2022,
@RbtGlennKetchum @RobertGKetchum @LittleBearProd #LittleBearProd

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Friday, February 4, 2022

An Alaskan Summer with Russell Daggatt, Kayaking, and Camping Adventures in Glacier Bay, and Hiking on Kruzof Island #1
Glacier Bay #1:  
While working on the Tongass rainforest commission, Carey, and I, became aware of some other significant adventures to be had in southeast Alaska, but as they were unrelated to the logging issues, we passed on them for the time being to concentrate on our project at-hand. After Aperture published, "The Tongass: Alaska’s Vanishing Rain Forest,” however, we felt free to explore wherever we wanted. Since several trips were to be kayaking, and I was still shooting pictures with lots of related equipment, we needed a camp/schlep assistant, so we asked a friend that lived near us in Manhattan Beach, Russell Daggatt, if he would like to join us. Russell was extremely bright, and he had “retired” from his first corporate venture relatively wealthy, before he was 30, so he had the time. He also kept himself very fit, and was totally up for some Alaskan adventures, as had never been there before. Our first shot was a 10-day kayaking trip into Tracy Arm fjord, which has previously been featured in these blogs.  It was an amazing adventure, so check it out if you did not see it when it was originally posted.

photograph(s) © copyright, ROBERT GLENN KETCHUM, 2022,
@RbtGlennKetchum @RobertGKetchum @LittleBearProd #LittleBearProd

Follow Robert Glenn Ketchum's Photographic Activism Online:
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