High and Wild: Three Years of Wandering in the Wind Rivers
by Robert Glenn Ketchum
After receiving my MFA from CalArts, I was invited by Bill Lund, Sharon Disney’s husband, to come stay at the families' Diamond-D Ranch in Dubois, Wyoming. Bill thought I might like to photograph in the nearby Wind River Mountains, which I did, backpacking through them extensively over the next three summers. Welcome to a world of big granite walls and huge alpine lakes!
~Robert Glenn Ketchum
After receiving my MFA from CalArts, I was invited by Bill Lund, Sharon Disney’s husband, to come stay at the families' Diamond-D Ranch in Dubois, Wyoming. Bill thought I might like to photograph in the nearby Wind River Mountains, which I did, backpacking through them extensively over the next three summers. Welcome to a world of big granite walls and huge alpine lakes!
~Robert Glenn Ketchum
Wind Rivers, #259:
By the time we got back to our camp at Clear Lake, the wind had died down substantially, and our camp cook was prepping a meal, having already built a warming fire. We got through dinner undisturbed, a but shortly thereafter, another howling electric storm swept over us, so we all took cover in the tents. It did not last all that long, and when we emerged, it was to find Haystack Mountain glowing gold in the late light. In the morning we would pack up and walk out, so after several years of backpacking throughout the Wind River range, this would be my last picture of those mountains. I hope you have enjoyed the adventures detailed in this blog.
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Wind Rivers, #258:
The stormy weather came and went quickly because it was being pushed by high, cold winds. Once the kids came out of their boulder cave, everybody got layered up, and we headed back to our camp at Clear Lake. Talja’s rain pancho was doing a lot of flapping around, and she had to hold her hood down because it kept blowing off her head. At one point I stopped to run a belt around the pancho to hold it down, and I got this very cute picture her. Like with Travis in the last post, this is the last picture I have of my daughter camping in the mountains. Not a bad memory!
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Wind Rivers, #257:
The kids did not want to hike up to the top of the Continental Divide, so they opted to stay at Temple Lake and fish, while LiLi, their mom, and I ascended to the pass. When we three reached the summit of the trail, we could look back at Temple Lake (last post) and see the four of them working the shoreline. We could also see some serious weather that was about to pass over them. They all had rain gear, so getting wet was not a problem, but there was a lot of lightening as well, and we could see the kids all talking to each other, and then went over into a big boulder field where they disappeared from our view. This was Travis’ second time to do extended camping in the Wind Rivers, and he and I had been subject to some pretty fierce lightening storms, so he took over when it all began, and led his sister, and the other two kids, into a sizable boulder cave above the shore of the lake. There he broke out food, and had everybody eat to stay warm. By the time we three came down off the pass, the kids were safe and comfortable, and only emerged when I called to them to find out where they were. I was impressed that Travis took charge, and made sure everyone took shelter from the storm. I also like how he is styling his Patagonia fleece jacket. This is the last picture I have of him camping in the mountains.
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Wind Rivers, #256:
On our last day we all decided to fish Temple Lake one more time, and marvel at the vertical face of 12,000ft+ Temple Peak. After about 1hr. of fishing, weather began to move over us, and the wind made casting difficult, so we stopped for awhile and ate lunch. There was a nearby trail that went past the lake and climbed the pass next to Temple Peak. At the top of the pass you cross the Continental Divide, so the mom and I decided we would spend the rest of the afternoon doing that. The kids were tired, however, and wanted to continue fishing, so we left them to keep trying their luck, and she, and I, headed up. The weather grew worse above the lake, and threw out a good bit of thunder and lightening, but that did not come over us, so we did cross over the divide. Now on our way back down, LiLi and I are posing it up with Temple Lake in the background. We are just below 11,000ft. at this point.
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Wind Rivers, #255:
With two days left before we walk out, my posse, and I, decided to revisit the dome gardens. After a good bit of laying around on the little patches of meadow grass, we are finally headed back to camp where dinner will soon be served. I just paused here to once again take in this dramatic view of Temple Peak. We have all decided that tomorrow we are going to go fishing once again at Temple Lake, and spend the day in the shadow of that 12,000ft+ face.
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Wind Rivers, #254:
Another lazy day when we all stayed close to camp. Travis and I climbed part way up the staircase waterfall coming out of Deep Lake, so he could find a pool deep enough to swim in. Then, on the way back to camp, he and LiLi took time out to chase some fish around. Here Travis is pointing out one to LiLi, but LiLi seems pretty fixed on another nearby.
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Wind Rivers, #253:
The day after our long hike around Black Joe Lake, it dawned sunny, and proceeded to get hot. Our group was pretty tired from yesterday’s activities, so some deemed to stay in camp and be lazy, and a few of us decided to go swim in the pools formed by the staircase waterfall coming down from Deep Lake. The water is freezing cold, but these two spend a good bit of time in it anyway, and there is nothing like a warm granite slab to lay on once you get out. It also put them both to sleep, so the ever-vigilant LiLi, is standing guard to assure nothing sneeks up on them.
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Wind Rivers, #252:
Talja requested a solo picture coping some attitude to show her friends when we get back home, so I obliged. Although her pose is cute, what is notable to me is that she has just spent a 16-mile+ day hiking in boulders, and climbing steep granite slabs, in her floral Keen water shoes, and is none the worse for wear. Amazing!
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Wind Rivers, #251:
As you saw in the last post, after an all-day circumnavigation of Black Joe Lake, my partner, Vicki Golden, and I, and my first black lab, Belle Star (not in that picture), stood in this exact same place while my friend, Gordon Williams, took the picture. It is AMAZING to me that 30yrs. later, at the age of 60, I have just repeated that adventure with my children and their friends, and now Travis, Talja, and my second black lab, LiLi, are striking a pose in the same spot. Talk about coming full circle, and if you had told me that I would repeat that long, relatively arduous day at 60, when I was 30, I would have laughed and told you, you were nuts.
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Wind Rivers, #250:
Deja vu! In the last post, my kids, and I, were sitting at this exact location in 2006, having spent the day circling around Black Joe Lake. I was 60 at that time. Here I am in my early 30’s with my then-partner Vicki Golden in 1977. At this time I could never have imagined I would stand at this spot once again, AND have two young children with me. I am so grateful I got to do this,..twice!
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Wind Rivers, #249:
We have now traversed Black Joe Lake and clambered up the boulder field to the top of the dome, our last real obstacle before returning to camp. The dome provides some great views of where we have been all day, as well as the summits in the basin of our camp, so we all stop to snack, drink water, and refresh, before the last push. In the background is Haystack Mountain, and you can clearly see the crack that Talja crawled up into two days ago. This is an incredible moment for me to be sitting here with my two kids at 60yrs. of age in 2006. As you will see in next week’s post, I was in this exact spot in the late 1970’s, having spent the day circling the lake below for my first time.
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Wind Rivers, #248:
After a brief swim session, the afternoon is getting on, so it is time to head down to Black Joe Lake and traverse the far side. We are still 6-miles from camp, but no one seems the worse for wear, and the youngest of us, the two girls, seem to have been invigorated by the cold water, so they lead the pack. The far side of the lake has a very navigable trail, so there will be no arduous bouldering until the climb over the dome at the very end. It should be a relatively pleasant late afternoon hike.
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Wind Rivers, #247:
With the end of Black Joe Lake in sight and only about 1/2-mile away, the heat of the day is quite noticeable, and when we stop once again for water, the girls (including mom) decide to get naked, and go for a swim. The men are having none of it, but I have to say that at 10,400ft. it was quite amusing to have little naked girls scampering around in the meadows, and splashing in the creek. Of course, LiLi joined the girls, as a lab will use any excuse to get wet on a hot day.
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Wind Rivers, #246:
At the far end of Black Joe Lake, it is fed by Black Joe Creek, which descends from a basin that hosts several small unnamed lakes that are covered with a good deal of ice most of the year, because they are situated in the shadow of East Temple peak and spire. After our troop traversed the near side of Black Joe Lake, beneath the sheer walls of Haystack Mountain, we followed the creek up into the high basin of small lakes. In this shot everybody has stopped for water, and some snacks, and Talja is snuggling with LiLi, as East Temple Peak and spire loom above us. We are on our way down, and as we descend along the creek, the heat of the day is upon us, and it is surprisingly hot for being at this altitude.
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Wind Rivers, #245:
After our day of independent adventuring with our individual family members, everyone arrived back in camp around dinnertime. Our guide/camp cook had a nice fire going, and was busy preparing our meal, so everyone settled into their sling chairs, including LiLi, and cozied up to the fire. Grant and Travis look pretty chill here. It is going to be an early evening tonight because we have a 16-mile trek planned for tomorrow, and we will spend the entire day circumnavigating Black Joe Lake, which lies just over the dome behind our camp.
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Wind Rivers, #244:
About 1/2 the way down the waterfall staircase from Deep Lake, we came upon a large pool where LiLi spotted some fish, so naturally she jumped and began to chase them around. The kids found that amusing so they joined her as well. In this shot, Talja has finally come out because the water is REALLY cold, and she is just having a little camera attitude.
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Wind Rivers, #243:
The day after our adventure on Haystack Mountain, we collectively decided that each family would separate and spend time alone with our kids. Mine wanted to scramble up the waterfall coming down from Deep Lake, and wander around in the gardens on the dome between Deep and Temple Lake. It was not windy this day, and was actually quite warm in the sun. We had a lazy, leisurely lunch, and in the mid-afternoon began to head back for our camp at Clear Lake. I took this shot as we were preparing to descend, and it is worth noting that my kids did bring their hiking boots, but neither chose to wear them. Travis did the entire hike in his sandals, and Talja is wearing her Keen (@Keen) water shoes.
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Wind Rivers, #242:
As we get higher up on the shoulder of Haystack Mountain, the wind gets wilder and wilder. It was actually blowing us around, and howling loudly enough that it was hard to hear each other speak. Talja’s friend was so frightened by it, she began to cry so her mother took she and Grant down to a lower elevation where there was some tree protection. Talja was having none of it, however, and she forged ahead. In fact she is above Travis, and out-of-sight behind a roll in the granite dome. I had pointed out that crack to the left of Travis, and told her that it led to the summit as a free climb, no rope was needed, so of course that is exactly where she is headed. The crack is huge, and once she got inside it, she was protected from the wind, so she climbed 1/2-way up it before I called to her to come back down. She is clearly the bravest of this bunch, neither Travis, nor I, even climbed to the base of the crack.
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Wind Rivers, #241:
We had planned that the day following our walk around the Deep Lake-Temple Lake Basin, would cover less miles and stay closer to home. Sometime during the night, a fierce windstorm blew up on us, and sent the tents flapping. It was not raining, but the wind was streaming through in screaming gusts. It was kind of cool (no pun) as you could hear the gusts coming in, sweeping across the forest around us, eventually blowing through our camp. In the morning, breakfast was a layered-clothing affair as the windstorm continued. For the day's adventure, and because we needed to move around to stay warm, I suggested that we ascend the nearby ridge of Haystack Mountain, easily reachable, and directly behind our campsite. The approach led us through a brief section of trees, and then we emerged on a granite spine covered with boulders, and tundra meadows. It also FULLY exposed us to the wind. The higher we climbed, the wilder it got. Talja and Travis were fearless, even though some of the gusts literally pushed us around. I took this shot about halfway to where we topped out, and Talja took the moment to assure me that we were going all the way.
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Wind Rivers, #240:
Here is another girl who also has been having fun all day, and now Lili has climbed into “her” chair next to the fire, and she is doing a solo snuggly (although, there is a lot of random petting every time someone passes by her.)
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Wind Rivers, #239:
After a LONG day of many miles and a lot of elevation gain, a good dinner which included the trout we caught, and a nice fire, capped off the evening. After a hike like that, there is nothing better than a little chair snuggling in front of a roaring campfire. Girls Just want to have fun!
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Wind Rivers, #238:
After another 4-mile overland scramble, we arrived back in camp with trout for all. Our camp cook was preparing other things as well, and anticipating our return, he had started a nice campfire, around which I gathered my weasels for this group shot to mark the end of our first full day. As it so often does in the Wind Rivers, clouds built up in the late afternoon sky, but they never manifested a full thunderstorm, and they dissipated when the cool of the evening settled in. Given a 10-mile+ day, and over 1,500ft of vertical climbing, I thought the next morning should be laid back, and that we would hang closer to camp. Now, however, it is time for dinner, and being cozy around the campfire, chilling in the sling chairs.
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High and Wild: Three Years of Wandering in the Wind Rivers, #237
Wind Rivers, #237:
Temple Lake is a spectacular setting, nestled at the foot of 13,804ft. Temple Peak. Whereas Deep Lake is a dark sapphire blue, Temple is turquoise green, and a much larger lake. It has become windy up here, but we are fishing with lures and not flies, so we can still get in some long casts, and everyone steps up onto a boulder to tease the trout. It gave me great satisfaction to see these young kids enjoying such a day in a very wild place, and feeling completely comfortable with it all. I especially enjoyed my lethally cute daughter throwing out long casts with her pink Barbie rod. OMG!
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Wind Rivers, #236:
After lunch and sunning at the small lake beneath East Temple Peak, everyone seems rested enough to continue our day of exploration. 700ft above us, over the dome to the left in this picture, lies anther large lake, Temple. So, I decide we should go fish there as well. The troops must rock hop across the creek that comes out of the small, unnamed lake which flows into Deep. Many miles away in the background to the right, War Bonnet Peak and Pingora are visible. We stop to fish briefly at this end of Deep, but do not see any action, so we continue on, and begin our ascent of the dome and terraces leading upward to Temple Lake Basin.
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Wind Rivers, #235:
All posses should have group portraits if they find themselves in striking settings, and what could be more striking than being at the foot of 12,605ft. East Temple Peak in the Wind River Range. In full pose, my crew hams it up. My daughter, Talja, is to the right in light blue. My son, Travis, sports the cool shades in the wayback to the left. LiLi seems to be the only one not trying to be silly. East Temple looks pretty serious.
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Wind Rivers, #234:
As my posse, and I, continue around Deep Lake to the far end, it brings us beneath the very impressive East Temple Peak, towering above us at 12,605ft. Deep Lake is huge, and very deep, but just 100ft. or so above Deep, is a tiny, shallow, unnamed lake that sits, literally at the foot of the East Temple summit. I thought such a dramatic perch would be a good place to have a mid-morning snack, so we all scramble up to the little lake, and find some rocks to perch on while taking in a little food, and the warmth of the sun. Travis went down to the lake to get some water, and LiLi followed, having decided to go swimming.
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Wind Rivers, #233:
For our first full day in the Deep Lake Basin of the Wind River Range, I want to show the mom, the four kids, and my dog, LiLi, the entire basin, which they are likely to explore further in the coming days of our 10-day camping trip. Getting an early start, we ascend the staircase waterfall that comes down from Deep Lake into Clear Lake, where our camp is located. Arriving at Deep Lake, a large body of water above 10,000ft, we then clamber half way around the eastern shore of the lake, where there have been fewer visits from people who fish. We all have poles to share, so I want to teach the kids to fish. I guess correctly about the presence of catchable trout, and within 1/2hr., we have four nice ones for dinner tonight. To keep the fish from becoming toxic, they need to be cleaned right away, so I tell everyone what I am going to do, and suggest they might find it a little gross, so they should keep on hiking, and I will catch up to them. But NO!!! If you are a kid, gross is good, so they gather closely around me to see every gory detail. It was especially rewarding to them that the trout made for a VERY tasty dinner that night, as no one, except for me, had ever had trout before.
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Wind Rivers, #232:
When we dayhikers arrive at our Clear Lake camp), everything has been set up. Talja and her friend are playing at the edge of the lake, and the camp wrangler / chef has begun preparing lunch. The rest of the afternoon is spent hanging out at camp, and swimming in the lake, as most of us are tired after the 9-mile walk in. The next day, however, I intend to show this crew the expanse of this basin, and Deep Lake, which sits another 700ft. above us. Deep also has excellent fishing, so early the next morning, everyone assembles their daypacks, fishing gear, and we are off.
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Wind Rivers, #231:
6-miles into our hike, we arrive at the first lake, Big Sandy. From here, the trail branches off in three directions. The first goes up into the Cirque of the Towers. There is a stream coming down from there, so we must do a little rock hopping across it, because we are headed for the second intersection that will take us up 3-miles into the Clear Lake basin. The third trail, only slightly further on, leads up into the Temple Peak / Temple Lake basin, which we will approach in a few days from our camp at Clear Lake. Talja, her friend, our camp wrangler, and the pack horses have all preceeded us, setting up the camp and tents, long before we arrive. As we meet the start of our branching trail, the cowboys, and all the pack horses, pass by us on their way back out to the lodge.
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Wind Rivers, #230:
There is a mandated procedure to enter a designated wilderness area in the US, and it involves signing-in at the trailhead. There is usually a billboard there, with warnings about dangerous animals, and instructions regarding appropriate camping behavior,..pack it in, pack it out - don’t leave litter, etc. There is also a clipboard whereupon you enter the size of your party, the destination where you intend to camp, and how many days you plan to stay. The clipboard is checked fairly regularly by rangers, and if you have not signed out, and it is past your designated last day, it triggers a rescue party to come find you. Here, my son, Travis, on the left, and his friend, Grant, on the right, have just complied. LiLi just wants to get going, so she is throwing out her “take the f%#ing picture, and let’s get this show started,” look.
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Wind Rivers, #229:
Back in Pinedale, the kids and I assembled our packs for the 10-day trip into the Clear Lake basin. We planned to drive from Pinedale to the Big Sandy trailhead, where there is also a rustic lodge and cabins. We would be joined there by a mother and her two kids, a daughter Talja’s age, and a son Travis’ age that he went to school with. We would overnight in the cabins, and the next morning, wranglers would take our food, the heavy gear, and the two girls into the basin on horseback. The mother, I, and the two boys would walk in on the relatively short 6-mile trail. The horses would drop the gear, and leave a camp cook, then they would come back out. A camp cook? Hey, this is to be a Cadillac trip! Here, Travis and I are doing some last minute prep before shouldering our daypacks.
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